Eco-Tourism on a Malaysian Lake As Non-Business

Let's face it. If you want to be genuine, which is what Eco-tourism claims to be, it can't be formulaic. The style, service, and activities should all happen naturally. Sometimes there are unexpected gaps. At least as often there are unexpected pleasures and discoveries.

This is Suka Suka, a family run "retreat" on the edge of Tasik (lake) Cenderoh, the oldest reservoir in Malaysia. There are no signs, there's barely a website, and the owner doesn't care much about business. He's a highly intelligent escapee from the urban rat race, (in this case Kuala Lumpur) doing his own thing in some charming, peaceful boondocks outside the charming, historic town of Kuala Kangsar in Perak state 3 hours from the dreaded capital city.

I went there for a short-term escape and to practice my Malay, which you can't do in Kuala Lumpur because everyone there wants to speak English at you. I found myself ensconced in a traditional Malay house on the lake's edge feeling very much welcome and at home. Owner Aziz was happy to take time telling me all about his retreat, his village, his country and his philosophy. In Malay or English it flowed nicely and was the first time since I came to Malaysia that I got to experience village life. The rest of the time he was working almost single-handed on reconstructing his Malay houses and creating a new branch of his retreat. The older branch is on an isolated island in the lake about a 10-minute boat ride away.

With my hoary beard and 40 years' experience in the eco-tourism business, I could tell him all the things he needed to fix. Don't send a guest out on the lake or into the village on his own without a map; he'll get lost. Try not to lock him out of his room after he returns exhausted from getting lost. Make sure the fan works, the mosquito net is whole, or have some mosquito repellent for sale. And trim the lower branches so guests can see the beautiful lake views they are blocking.

But he didn't ask, and I was happy with the place just as it was. Getting lost was a good excuse to chat with the villagers, who were happy to point me or motorbike me back where I belonged. Walking alone through the village was how I met the village kids who took my hand and placed it gently to their foreheads in a heart-warming gesture of respect And a walk in the mid-day heat is a great way to prepare for a totally relaxing afternoon nap.

Along with building and creating, the owners raise some fish in cages in the lake. Mother Ashia makes some tantalizing Malay food, and son Azam much prefers English to chatting in Malay. In between relaxing and meditating, there are things to do - kayaks to paddle, bikes to peddle, forests and a 500-year old town to explore.

But Suka Suka is mostly the personality of its owners, and if eco-tourism is supposed to be completely natural, this is the way it should be.

Some Further Encouragement for Travelers --

The state of Perak is full of spectacular limestone cliffs and forests and has a fascinating history as the center of a rich tin industry which fortunately collapsed before it could destroy the scenery. Scattered around are small ghost towns with the remains of old colonial arcade architecture that flourished with the tin business.

The nearby town Kuala Kangsar is, like many places in Malaysia, a gem little known to the outside world. Chock-a-block with beautifully maintained colonial buildings, gardens and lawns, it has a museum of memorabilia of the current sultan, a most admirable fellow who graduated as a barrister from the London Inns of Court and was a star hockey player and very handsome young lad as well.